FAQ

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If you have any questions regarding any of our products or simply have a question about our website, please feel free to contact us at the info below, or search this page for more info.

Contact us at:
Toll Free: (866) 572-2739
Local: (954) 421-3267
Email: info@yachtlights.com

General Answers

1. How much is shipping?
   Shipping prices vary on how many item you buy and how heavy they are. Typically for 2-3 lights and some bulbs shipping would run about $8-9
   
   
2. When will I receive my product?
   We ship all our products UPS Ground. Generally you should receive your products within 7-10 days of placing your order. If you need your order sent overnight you can contact us for custom pricing on that shipping.
   
   
3. Do you have a printed catalog?
   Yes, you may email us your name and address and we will be more than glad to send you a copy of our catalog.
   
   
4. Can I return an item?
   Yes, you can return any unused item in good condition within 30 days of purchase. We do charge a 15% restocking fee for returns however. Before returning an item you will need to call us first to receive an RMA number that you will mark on the outside of the box being returned. No items will be accepted without an RMA number.
   
   
5. How do I pay for an order?
   If you chose to place your order online, you will have the option to use your VISA, MC, AMEX or Paypal as a method of payment. You may also place your order over the phone.
   
   
   
6. Is it safe to fill out my personal information on your website?
   You personal information including your credit card number is totally secure using the latest 128 bit encryption and firewall technology. We do not sell our customers personal data to anyone, and your credit card number is never seem by us, rather is it directly sent to the credit card authorizing company.

Technical Answers

1. Are the lights water-resistant?
   Water Resistant fixtures will be either marked as 'Water-Resistant' or will have an IP Rating of 55 or 65. Fixtures with an IP Rating of less then 55 are not water resistant and should not be used in exterior locations or in wet areas.
   
   
2. Do the lights include the bulb?
   Most light fixtures do not include the bulbs, unless clearly marked 'Includes Bulb'.
   
   
3. How do I know what bulb to buy?
   All lights are marked with the bulb type they require, in some cases you have an option for 2 or more types. If a light is marked as using a 'G4 Halogen' bulb, you will then look under Bulbs > Halogen and select the one you want.
   
   
4. I'm not sure what type of lights to use (halogen, LED, incandescent or fluorescent). Why should I use one type over another?
   
   For task, accent, and art lighting, halogens are a good choice due to their excellent CRI (color rendering index) value. For general lighting, we recommend halogen or compact fluorescents (neutral color temperature) with a CRI of 80 or more.
   
   If efficiency is a major concern, LEDs are an excellent choice for task lighting, courtesy lighting and specialty applications such as livewell lights and compartment lights.
   In engine rooms, fluorescent lamps with a cool-white color temperature throw a lot of light and are very efficient.
   
   Incandescent lamps have good color rendering, are relatively inexpensive and readily available. However, they are inefficient and are adversely affected by voltage fluctuations, so they are not the best choice for many marine applications.
   
   
5. LEDs are big news. Why don't all fixtures use them?
   Although LEDs are attractive to boat owners for their low energy use, their output is minuscule compared to other lights. Several LEDs must be clustered together at different angles to approximate the light output of one standard incandescent bulb.
   
   The angle of illumination can vary (depending on the application). To achieve enough light (in foot-candles) to illuminate objects, the LEA must have a viewing angle of between 15-20 degrees. Therefore, bulkhead-mounted reading lights or chart lights are well suited for this type of illumination.
   
   For courtesy lights, LEDs with a wider viewing angle (lower footcandles) are a good choice. This inverse ratio between viewing angle and foot-candles limits LEA usage to specific applications.
   
   
6. How does bulb wattage vary with each type of light to get the same light output?
   
   As the chart above illustrates, light output (measured in Lumens/watt) varies according to bulb type. Therefore, on average, 1 watt of fluorescent is equivalent to almost 6 watts of incandescent (or 4 watts of halogen).
   
   LEDs are available in narrow beam, medium beam, and wide beam; the wider the beam angle, the lower the intensity of light output. Generally it takes between 7-9 LEDs for adequate reading and task lighting. It can take 20+ LEDs to equal the light output of a 1OW halogen spot (however, it is believed that we could see a 2-fold increase in the intensity of LEDs over the next two years.)
   
   
7. There seem to be many different terms used to describe light intensity or light output. What are the differences between these terms and how are they measured?
   Luminous Flux is the total amount of lamp light in all directions and is measured in Lumens.
   
   Luminous Intensity is the concentration of light in a particular direction and is measured in Candelas.
   
   Illuminance is the density of light on a surface and is measured in tux units.
   
   Luminance is the concentration of light directed toward the eye and is measured in Candela/square meter.
   
   
8. How do I calculate the correct spacing between my spot lights?
   
   Spacing should be at least equal to the beam diameter at the WorkPlane in order to evenly maintain foot-candle level throughout an area. "WorkPlane" is defined as the height at which an activity takes place in a particular room. At this height, imagine a plane cutting across the entire room (see diagram below). The WorkPlane is the point at which foot-candles are measured.
   
   
9. How do I choose the right dimmer?
   First, decide if you need an AC, AC, or low-voltage AC dimmer. Then decide if you prefer rotary (rheostat) control or momentary push-button control. Once you have narrowed your choice of dimmer category, you must match the power (Amp rating) of the dimmer with the total wattage demand of the circuit. Most dimmers have a 10-20% built-in overcapacity, so you don't have to overkill on amp size.
   
   A useful formula to remember is: W (watts) = V (volts) X A (amps)
   
   Finally, there are different features that may be important to you: multiple-switch capability, memory features, soft-start, nighttime LEA locator, or compatibility with your favorite decorative face plates (like Gewiss or Vimar).
   
   
10. How do I dim a circuit that is low-voltage AC (powered by a transformer)?
    There are two ways to do this. You may dim from the output side of the transformer using a low-voltage AC dimmer, or you may use a standard AC dimmer on the supply side of the transformer. If you decide to use a standard AC dimmer, be sure it is rated for "Inductive" loads. If you prefer to use a low-voltage AC dimmer, the transformer must be compatible (many compact electronic transformers will not work with low-voltage AC dimmers due to their high output frequency).
    
    
11. Am I limited to the type of fixtures I can use if my low-voltage is powered by transformers?
    Many larger vessels use transformers to take their 120VAC or 220VAC down to low voltage 12VAC or 24VAC. This allows the use of smaller fixtures which use miniature low voltage bulbs. All our low voltage incandescent, halogen, Xenon bulbs and LEDs will work with low voltage AC or AC. However, our AC fluorescent fixtures will only work with straight AC current.
    
    
12. What accessories can I use to extend bulb life?
    We offer two items, a voltage stabilizer and a bulb saver, which can help extend the life of your bulbs. The Cantalupi Voltage Stabilizer is available in 12V and 24V versions. It is a sugar cube-sized module that is wired directly to one or two low voltage fixtures (capacity 25W). It will stabilize the output voltage (to the bulb filament) within a range best suited for long bulb life. The IML Bulb Saver is a physically larger and more powerful unit (15 Amps) that can handle several fixtures at once. One model will operate between